Source: http://forum.videohelp.com/threads/193619-TBC-buying-guide/page2

22nd May 2007 09:46 #39

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Ricky D,

The ES-10 you can use as a pass-through. It can do some amazing things to some old tapes. I then pass it through the TBC-1000 to get a clean signal to the ADVC-100 just in case any weirdness gets through that would make my comp drop frames.

I also use the JVC S9911U?, but no longer use the built-in TBC when using the Pany as a pass-through, they don't work well together and can make the picture worse.

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DVD Recorders have an internal Frame Synchronizer with some inherent TBC performance. This makes them suitable for use as an external TBC/Frame Synchronizer in passthrough mode. They will output continuous sync regardless of input disturbances, thereby eliminating many audio/video skew issues when capturing from analog tape.

Frame Synchronization and Timebase Correction are independent functions. Frame Synchronization is performed on the read side of memory to guarantee continuous sync at the video output. Timebase Correction is performed on the write side of memory by deriving a suitable sampling clock with which to digitize the video input. The characteristics of the sampling clock determine the Timebase Correction capability. For more details; http://forum.videohelp.com/viewtopic.php?t=279530

TBC performance capabilities vary among different manufacturers. Toshiba DVD Recorders provide noticeable improvement of horizontal jitter errors. It was mentioned earlier that the TBC/Frame Synchronizer in the Panasonic ES10 does a fine job of correcting some vertical disturbances.

DVD Recorders do NOT remove copy protection. In fact, they sometimes falsely identify copy protection on unprotected sources and refuse to record. In passthrough mode, they will insert the MV protection if they detect it in the input source (falsely or otherwise). If this is an issue, then an "image stabilizing" device or an actual external TBC (DataVideo? or AVT-8710) may be required.

gshelley61 posted 2005 Mar 30 16:30 The 9000 series JVC machines (from the 9500 on) all have the 4MB TBC/DNR processor with very good to excellent build quality. The 9600 and the 9800 are considered by many to be the the best made, best performing machines. Used ones in good condition often sell for more than $300 on eBay.

The JVC SR-V10U is apparently the pro line version of the consumer HR-S7900U, which has the 2MB TBC/DNR processor. It is physically smaller and lighter than the current HR-S9911U, which has the 4MB TBC/DNR processor. Many have good luck with the refurb 9911 units.

If you plan on converting any commercial (copy-protected) VHS tapes, you will need an external full frame TBC, or a copy protection defeater box (like the Sima "Copy This"). Note that the copy boxes do not always work on every tape... the full frame TBC is fool proof and removes all copy protection signals. The TBC-1000 is a good unit. The AVT-8710 is another full frame TBC to consider... it costs less and has some picture controls (color, contrast, sharpness, etc.)

The BVP-4 is a powerful color correction processor that is perfect for tapes that are in really bad shape. The SignVideo? Proc Amp is a very high quality unit that has plenty of correction range for most projects, and includes a very useful luminance/black level meter. The DR-1000 Image Enhancer is probably the best sharpener/detailer available at the price (I haven't run into a better one yet). The DR-1000 can be used in conjunction with either the BVP-4 or the SignVideo? Proc Amp.

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This is a mirror of my official VCR Buying Guide posted at The Digital FAQ forum.

By using a good VCR, you can get more quality out of those VHS tapes
, before forever committing what you see to a DVD. These machines listed below all have some degree of noise reduction, or otherwise play a tape cleanly. These are PROSUMER or PROFESSIONAL video machines, not something found at Best Buy or Walmart. Timebase correctors (TBCs) almost always exist in these.

The most popular, highly-regarded and well-respected machines are in bold.

JVC S-VHS (NTSC) prosumer decks. JVC's high-end decks have CALIBRATION (finds best part of tape to play) and picture mode filters (AUTO, NORM, SHARP, EDIT). The 7000-series has 2MB TBC RAM, 9000-series has 4MB and uses the Dynamic Drum system.

  • JVC HR-S5000U (no TBC, older)
  • JVC HR-S5800U (no TBC, older)
  • JVC HR-S6800U (no TBC, older)
  • JVC HR-S7500U
  • JVC HR-S7600U
  • JVC HR-S7800U
  • JVC HR-S7900U
  • JVC HR-S9500U
  • JVC HR-S9600U
  • JVC HR-S9800U a.k.a GoVideo? SDV-650 clone
  • JVC HR-S9900U
  • JVC HR-S9911U
JVC S-VHS (PAL) decks, prosumer, same features as NTSC machines listed above.
  • JVC SR-S388E / SR-388EK
  • JVC HR-S7965EK
  • JVC HR-S8965EK
JVC Professional S-VHS (NTSC) decks, continuation of the 7000 prosumer series
  • JVC SR-V10U / SR-V10
  • JVC SR-V101US / SR-V101U
  • JVC SR-W5U / SR-W5
  • JVC SR-W7U / SR-W7
JVC Professional S-VHS (PAL) decks, same as above NTSC decks
  • JVC SR-V10E / SR-V10
JVC D-VHS decks, which has a lot of the same features as the prosumer S-VHS line, but also has an added ability to cure VHS flagging, much like the Panasonic DMR-ES10 DVD recorder does on pass-through.
  • HM-DH30000U
  • HM-DH40000U
  • JVC HM-DH5U
Mitsibishi D-VHS decks , which has all the TBC, DNR, Calibration, Picture Modes and 3D Y-C filters seen on the top recommended JVC S-VHS and D-VHS models
  • Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U D-VHS
Panasonic S-VHS (NTSC) professional editing decks, with full-field (multi-line) TBCs instead of a standard line TBC. The Panasonic Picture Control slider on the 1970/1980 is a variable version of the JVC Picture Control selections (by default, it tends to already sharpen a little at the "normal" notch setting)
  • Panasonic AG-7650
  • Panasonic AG-1960P / AG-1960 (has no TBC)
  • Panasonic AG-1970P / AG-1970
  • Panasonic AG-1980P / AG-1980 a.k.a. Panasonic NV-FS 200 for PAL version
Panasonic S-VHS (PAL) models with TBC and DNR (in order from oldest to the last model built):
  • Panasonic NV-FS 200 a.k.a. Panasonic AG-1980P for NTSC version
  • Panasonic NV-HS 950
  • Panasonic NV-HS 860
  • Panasonic NV-HS 930
  • Panasonic NV-HS 960
  • Panasonic NV-SV 121
Feel free to add to this post by replying below, or at http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/show...uide-1567.html
Mention details !!! (For example: filters it has, filters missing, clone of another deck, TBC present, etc).

Last updated February 2010. -LS

Video Guides > Basic Playback Hardware (to Convert Tape to Digital)

Article last updated 2006

Analog video formats, such as VHS, suffer from a few inherent quality-reducing errors.

The more money you dump into this hobby, the better quality results you will get. But this is a multi-faceted hobby, with many things to consider. Remember, this is digital video. So it's important to take care of both the "DIGITAL" and the "VIDEO" aspects, whereas "digital" is all the computer stuff, ranging from capture cards to burners to software, leaving "video" as all the source material and technique and playback aspects.

It takes more than a new computer with a burner and capture card to make good digital video. That's what this page is for: playback aspects. The two important devices to focus on are a "VCR" and a "TBC".


VCR Suggestions

Your typical VHS VCR is not good enough for digital video. It can playback tapes, but VHS tapes are a lossy format to begin with, and many VHS VCRs tend to amplify those errors rather than hide them. VHS is a low resolution analog format, and is prone to have noise that needs to be removed. S-VHS is the best choice, though it costs a bit more.

VHS Players:
If you insist on using a VHS VCR, normally due to budget restrictions, then try to find a player with a good tracking range that will play anything you throw at it. It will be less likely to go off track at the slightest error. Only use HiFi? 4-head machines. The 6-head machines are no better than 4-head machines.

Suggested VHS VCRs:
= 1. Sharp: These tend to track really well with digital tracking, and put out a fairly clean signal. Tapes made on this machine play almost anywhere. Be sure to turn off the "enhancement" filters as it makes the video grainy. Admiral brand units are also Sharp-made.
= 2. Panasonic: These are great machines, and record tapes that play almost anywhere, as well as putting out a decent signal. It does have a habit of going to blue-screen on video errors.
= 3. Sony: These are normally decent, but as with all Sony items, that can change from model to model. Many of them play any tape and record well.
= 4. JVC: The VHS units are not too shabby. Certainly not as good as JVC S-VHS equipment, or even the three VHS models mentioned above, but they often work okay.
= 5. Toshiba: These are pretty good units, especially the 6-head models, though they tended to break easily. Very good image quality, at least for a regular VHS unit.

IMPORTANT! Avoid any 2-head or mono VCR. Emerson, Magnavox, Philips, GE and Zenith brand machines are terrible. Most low-end and no-name brands are horrible machines, often adding errors to tapes and outputting noise that is seen by capture cards. You must use a VHS VCR that has RCA. Never use coax unless you are recording directly from broadcast, satellite (from the coax output) or cable.

Super VHS (S-VHS) Players:
If you have a little money (about $200-400), buy a decent Super VHS VCR, ones that come equipment with digital noise reduction, audio/video filters, and built-in time base correctors (line TBC for removing noise and cleaning video). Many brands of S-VHS VCRs exist, but know that JVC was the inventor of VHS and Super VHS technology, and they continue to lead the industry in these machines, especially in terms of quality. Panasonic, Mitsubishi, Sony, and Phillips all make S-VHS machines too. All JVC models have a few nifty features that any video fan should enjoy:

= 1. Video calibration. This is similar to tracking, but so much more. It more precisely control the playback quality of your tape, maintaining both tracking and signal quality.
= 2. Picture Control. This allows you to control how your pictures looks on screen, and have several modes, including 1) soft, 2) sharp, 3) norm/auto, and 4) edit/raw. Most times, leaving the setting on AUTO will provide the best results. EDIT is used to leave the video in raw form, without any kind of quality calibration, and is meant mostly for the editing functions of the VCR. SHARP is good when the video is blurry. SOFT makes the video a bit softer, often covering up noise in the signal, and is extremely useful with cartoons that have quality issues as it covers up video grain in like-colored areas.
= 3. Digital R3. This is a feature found on the upper-end models, and is edge correction. It is most noticeable on cartoons, but gives a cleaner break in contrast and in smearing or blurry areas of the video.
= 4. Video Stabilizer. This is a very nifty feature for tapes that have a hard time playing in other VCRs or have tracking issues that cause the tapes to bounce. This is a kind of bounce or jitter that is due to the physical aspects of the tapes, and cannot be corrected by a TBC. It must be corrected at the playback level, and this feature provides a solution to that error. The only disadvantage of this feature is that it cannot be used in conjunction with the built-in TBC/DNR filter. If turned on while TBC/DNR is enabled, it will first shut off that feature before initializing the stabilization filters.
= 5. Audio Monitor. This is a great feature for older tapes that have buzzing in the sound or have tracking errors that cause the audio to crackle or break. It can use MONO, HIFI, L CHAN, R CHAN, or MIX. The cracking is often removed by changing the audio to MONO. While it slightly muffles the sound, it will clear out the buzzing that is located in the upper frequencies of the HiFi? channel. The MIX is best unused, as it adds a "tunnel" effect to the sound. L and R CHAN allows you to pick just one channel for audio.
= 6. TBC/DNR. This is the built-in time base corrector on the JVC unit, that incorporates BOTH TBC and digital noise reduction at the same time. It is a button on the front of the machine that glows red or green when turned on. This feature alone makes these machines worth the price. These seem to provide more horizontal corrections than vertical ones.
= 7. Rec Level Control. This is an audio level filter. It allows you to raise or lower the volume of the audio. Although it is supposed to only work for recording, on some models, in some situations, it seems to work for playback also, including pass-through!

Suggested S-VHS VCRs? Any one of these will do:
JVC HR-S9911U <- the current JVC model
JVC HR-S9900U
JVC HR-S9800U <- personal favorite
JVC HR-S9600U
JVC HR-S9500U <- only has TBC, not all the filters
JVC HR-S7900U
JVC HR-S7800U
JVC HR-S7600U
JVC SR-V10U

Which ones are not so good?
The low-cost $100-200 S-VHS units, such as the JVC 2000-5000 series machines (ex: JVC HR-S2900U), are not made to last long. They are decent machines, and they will help you to some extent (using the Video Calibration and other video and audio filters). However, do not be surprised if they break down in as soon as one year after purchase, no matter the amount of use you give it. They go out of alignment easily as well, and alignment errors is one reasons tapes get "eaten" when played. (FYI: The other reason is heat or faulty tape mechanics.)


What's a TBC? Which one should I get? Where?


While anybody not living in a cave since the late 1970s knows a VCR is a video cassette recorder, many of you are probably asking what a TBC is. TBC is the shorthand name for a Time Base Corrector, a device that adjusts the signal for proper playback, often seen as "cleaning" the video.

Time Base Correctors come in many forms. They range in price from $40 at your local Best Buy to $1,000s at mail-order video houses. (But before you get your keys and wallet, let me quickly point out that the $40 unit at Best Buy is junk and barely works. So sit back down and keep reading...) I've categorized them briefly:

= 1. Cheap. This is actually more of a cheap filter/processor, not really a TBC. Does almost nothing. This unit is good mostly for removing Macrovision. It does almost nothing else. It's corrections are limited and visually unnoticeable. It may help with dropped framescaused from minor signal errors. Example: SIMA CopyMaster?. Price $40-100
= 2. Average. Your typical "line" TBCs. Does a little bit of work, but not perfect. These are great at removing errors, but can sometimes cause more harm than good. Just be sure it can be turned on or off at will in case it does harm. Some are based on DNR algorithms (digital noise reduction circuitry), specifically to "clean up" video. Example: JVC S-VHS VCRs and certain DVD recorders. Price $100 (or about $100 worth of the price if included as a feature of the unit)
= 3. Hefty. Your typical "full frame" TBC.Often called semi-pro or pro-sumer. These do a lot and are true TBCs by definition. I cannot survive without my DataVideo? TBC-1000, as it vertically corrects the video and synchs frames, preventing almost all vertical bouncing or jittering in the image. This is most useful with older, non-commercial VHS tapes, which is what I primarily use as source. Example: DataVideo? TBC-1000, AVToolbox AVT-8710. Price $200-350
=
4. Professional. Does everything but cook your breakfast. These often have features hobbyists and amateurs would never use or would not know how to use, including chroma keying, color-bar generation and freeze-frame. Example: DataVideo? TBC-4000/6000. Price $900+

Suggested TBC? The DataVideo? TBC-1000 or AVToolbox AVT-8710.
TBCs can be found at professional video stores like B&H Photo and Video.

Copy protection notes: Anti-copy protection methods, most commonly Macrovision's patented form of anti-copy, are little more than artificially-inserted video errors that confuse the AGC (automatic gain control) on your video equipment. A good TBC filters out all errors, including the artificial ones.


Examples of a S-VHS VCR and TBC in use

Although this topic will be more thoroughly covered in the video restoration guides, here is a quick peak at what a S-VHS VCRs and TBCs can do to help improve your video. The following images are of a JVC HR-S9800U and DataVideo? TBC-1000 in action. (NOTE: The DataVideo? TBC-1000 was used to remove slight jitter in these tests, something that cannot be illustrated with images.)

Raw source. Using JVC 9800 ( TBC off) Using JVC 9800 ( TBC on). Notice the wavy distortions in the image have disappeared.
Video in JVC 9800 ( TBC off) Video in JVC 9800 ( TBC on), video torn at top of screen. This is a rare error that happens on some source.

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Archiving VHS Tapes with dvgrab

Here’s a project I’ve been meaning to do for a good long time. I have a bunch of home movies on VHS going back at least to 1988, and I wanted to get them digitized for safekeeping and so they’re easier to watch.

We have three VCR’s in our pile of unloved gadgets, none of which have been hooked up to the main TV for years. It turns out that the two oldest units won’t even load tapes anymore. The newest VCR seems to be in good working order, so it’s probably not a bad idea to get this done before it decides to give up as well.

I was originally going to purchase a Canopus ADVC110 Converter to convert the VCR’s analog output to a firewire DV stream, but it turns out that as an added bonus, the Canon HV30 MiniDV HD Camcorder we purchased last year includes the same capability of doing live AV->DV conversion. If you don’t have a camcorder that can do this conversion for you, all reports indicate that the Canopus converter is a rock solid device.

That means that as far as hardware goes, all I needed to do was connect the VCR’s analog output to the AV port on the camcorder, connect the camcorder’s firewire port to the computer, then turn the camcorder to Play mode and turn on the AV->DV option in the menu. Whatever I play on the VCR from that point shows up on the camcorder’s LCD screen and is being converted to a DV signal on the firewire connection.

From there, I just need to tell Linux to do something with that signal. For each tape, here’s the process I use:

1) Rewind the tape so it’s ready to go.

2) Run this command:

dvgrab -noavc -s 0 -showstatus -d 02:10:00

“noavc” tells dvgrab not to try starting/stopping the tape on the DV camcorder. Since we’re doing live conversion with no tape involved on the camcorder side, it doesn’t make sense to try to control the tape mechanism.

“-s 0″ disables dvgrab’s default behavior of splitting the output into 1G chunks. I’d rather have a big 20G file when I’m done that I can watch in one piece than a bunch of smaller files. Since I’m saving these files onto an ext3 filesystem, filesize really isn’t an issue.

“-showstatus” just tells dvgrab to display a running counter of its capture progress, which is sometimes useful.

“-d 02:10:00″ tells it to stop capturing after 2 hours and 10 minutes. A VHS tape is normally 2 hours (plus a little wiggle room sometimes), so this forces it to stop after that much time has gone by. This means I don’t need to babysit the process once I’ve started a tape. I can fire it up, let the whole tape get captured, and go to bed without having the hard drive fill up overnight. Do pay attention to your tapes, though. Most of what I have are T-120 tapes in SP mode, so this works fine. A T-120 tape in EP mode, though, would be 6 hours. And I just had one capture stop too early because I didn’t realize I was capturing from a (rather unusual) T-160 tape, so I didn’t extend the capture duration accordingly.

If you’re watching the capture take place and see that there’s nothing more on the tape earlier than the time limit you gave, you can always just press Control-C to end the capture early.

This command will give you a big .dv file, which is raw DV data that’s not wrapped in an .avi container. I prefer this, because it’s the raw capture data without any further manipulation — I can always modify it further later if I have a reason to, but VLC will play .dv files just fine and ffmpeg will happily accept them for input as conversion if need be.

3) If you let the capture run its course and stop due to the time limit you gave, then usually you’ll end up with a fair amount of empty video at the end since the source tape usually isn’t filled to capacity. In that case, I watch the captured video in VLC, use the scroll bar to find the actual end of the video content, and make note of the time where the video should be chopped at the end. Then run this command:

dvgrab -showstatus -stdin -d 1:05:10 -s 0 < dvgrab-001.dv

where “1:05:10″ gets replaced with the actual time value you looked up in VLC. It’ll go through and create a second .dv file trimmed as requested, after which you can delete the larger original file.

4) From there, the .dv file gets stored on a large hard drive, which is backed up to at least two other large hard drives on a rotating schedule. Raw DV data requires about 15.5GB/hour, so take that into account when determining your storage needs for an archiving project. A terabyte hard drive will store about 64 hours of footage.

Of course, you can always use programs like ffmpeg to convert these files to smaller h.264 video or DVD images, or whatever you want. I always want to keep the original raw captures, though, as a “master archive” since I don’t want to ever have to do this again and may not even be able to if the tapes deteriorate further over time.

This entry was posted on Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 at 3:08 pm and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

-- RyanEgeland - 25 Feb 2010

Topic revision: r1 - 25 Feb 2010 - 20:18:19 - RyanEgeland
 
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